![]() It is really important that these screws are well below the surface, as you don’t want them interfering with the sled riding on the rails. With the sides done, I added glue to the bottom of the sides, clamped them to the base, and then added countersunk screws from the underside of the sled. I glued the pieces together, added a few brad nails to hold them in place, and then added some 1 ¼” screws to tighten everything up. I cut the sides to length at the miter saw using some offcuts of plywood I had on hand. Since I used ½” plywood for the bottom of the sled, I wanted to make sure it was nice and stiff, which is the reason I went with double layered plywood for the sides. Once I knew the width I needed, I ripped the plywood to width on the table saw.įor the side walls, I used two strips of ¾” plywood glued together. I made the base out of ½” plywood, which allowed me to get more depth without having to use a collet extension on my router. I sized the base of the sled to be wide enough to fit the base of my router plus the widths of the side walls of the sled. This sled rides on two rails, one on each side of the slab. These jigs are fairly simple to make, you basically just need a sled for your router to ride on above the slab. ![]() After a 60 grit sanding with the Rotex first to remove the mill marks and then progress in grit to 220 with a random orbit sander and you get a smooth flat finish.The first step in this build is to make the router flattening jig. Once you’re done, remove the router and the sled and sweep off your work. Note, I didnt need the shim anymore because this side was now flat. Once you surface one side, flip your work over and repeat the process. Now slowly move onto the surface of the workpiece and make your first cut by slowly passing the router over the surface, adjusting it about 3/4″ on each pass. Make sure your router bit is away from the surface of the workpiece and turn the router on. I also used a shim here to remove any rocking. Since the work piece weighs over 40 lbs, there’s no need to fasten it down, it will stay in place. To hold my workpiece in place, I used 150 lb mag switches to keep the work piece from moving laterally. Just plunge down until the bit makes contact. ![]() Now with the router OFF, find the lowest point on the surface of the material. This tool gives you the ability to extend all the way down to the workpiece. I used a 1 1/4″ mortising bit, but I could have used a surfacing bit just as easily. ![]() Now just cut the sides for the sled with a miter saw. Once again, exercise caution with your hands and keep them well away from the blade. Make sure when you cut the other side that you secure the waste piece in the middle with your fingers so that it doesn’t wander into the blade and cause kickback. Now run the piece across the blade until you reach the holes on either end. ** PLEASE USE CAUTION** always be aware of where your hands are with regard to the blade since you are blindly raising the blade through the work piece. Turn on your saw and slowly raise the blade up through the plywood. Use feather boards to keep constant downward and lateral pressure against the work piece.With the saw blade retracted, slide the work piece over the blade. This will serve as the beginning and end of the slot. At the drill press, drill two 1 1/2″ holes at either end of the sled bottom. Add 1/32″ to this measurement to allow just enough room to prevent binding when the router moves across the sled. To cut the bottom of the sled, use your router’s base to set the width of the cut. ![]()
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